17th February message

Take me to your leader………

Well the decision was made, not easily but for a variety of reasons, Toots and NZ Rules, the need to sort out our finances and it’s a long way back all conspired to make us feel that we should stick to our “original” plan and head for the States. But it was hard and two subdued crews waved goodbye to each other as we hoisted sail and made ready for departure. Lilly B will carry on to the San Blas before going into the Panama and onto the Pacific. We think of them often, wonder where they are, how everyone is, whether we’ll see them again but notwithstanding all that so far it seems to be the right decision………and as the popular song has it (well it is on this boat) “its oh so nice to go travelling….. but it’s so much nicer to come home……”

“Here’s looking at you kid……..”

So we left Bonaire on March 23^rd for the 600mile trip to Cuba. It turned out to be a slow-ish crossing with its share of ups and downs. Big seas combine to exploit every single weakness in our skylight resulting a wet bed, a wet Toots and a very damp cabin. I don’t think there is anything as demoralising as water getting into your boat and we are going to have some serious efforts to cure the problem when we get home. We even hung our shower curtain(!) along the bed to try to keep it dry. Enough, enough.

On a fine dawn we saw Cuba and slipped quietly into Santiago de Cuba. First impressions are always important and these were wonderful. A natural harbour, protected by a large fort with houses dotted around an adjacent island, we couldn’t have had a more inspiring welcome. The Sierra Maestro provided a backdrop for the sun to illuminate as we motored into the anchorage. It went downhill after that as we spent the next 6 or 7 hours clearing in, watching posse after posse descend the companionway to complete umpteen forms and charge us handsomely for the privilege. But working on the adage “You shouldn’t have joined if you can’t take a joke” we eventually got to the end of it all and found ourselves US$60 lighter. The pontoon had 5 or 6 disgruntled boats, the majority of whom were exiting and everyone felt the level of security to be excessive. Well, of course, it is not up to us how the Cubans run their country and no one asked us to go there but people being people we complain.

Ride up the hill and take a photo of the bay we’re in……

We spent a couple of days there, riding into town to buy diesel, veg and generally look around. Busy, friendly, noisy and inquisitive or indifferent, the cities residents looked on amazed as we folded and unfolded our Brompton bikes. We found the municipal market and, with the help of an off duty security guard from the marina who had spotted us, exchanged $ for Cuban peso (25peso = US$1) and bought from the poorly stocked tables. The local shops too are desperate and only in the Pan Americana were things better. The drawback is the latter only sell for US$. Despite that they are fairly crowded and although to us the prices seem ok for many locals I suspect they are the “Knightsbridge” of shopping. Political tracts are everywhere, posters/murals of Che abound and I could almost be back in the 60’s. Except this is for real.

Island homes in Santiago Bay, no cars, plenty of leaky rowing boats..

2 days earlier we’d explained to the harbour office we wished to leave at 6am, as the officials need to visit. The day before departure and the Vet dept., the Dept for the Eradication of Mosquito etc etc, all made their appearance. This time there was no sniffer dog looking for drugs, as the officials concerned didn’t show up. We queried their absence, pointing out we need to leave at 6am the next morning. It seems they only come aboard 15 minutes before your departure. We paid our bill, 3 nights on the pontoon, Visa’s, Cruising permit and something else= US$113. Departure day, 6am came and went and finally the officials arrived at 8am, went though the same paperwork, asked the same questions and performed the same search, albeit without canine assistance. At last! Cleared to go we cast off and gently, with very little wind, sailed away from the pontoon. 10 yards out a shout from the jetty made me turn and a worried looking Tooty was galloping across the pontoon, a look of horror on her chops as the gap between boat and jetty widened. No engine meant no warning and neither of us had seen her wander off the boat as we began to cast off. Safely on board we motored away to work our way up the coast.

Local bar near the marina, Santiago.

Locals only

We’re still doing that although as we are now in the “Garden” we no longer attract the attention of the Guard Frontera. Anchor anywhere near habitation and they are on their way out to you. It would be funny if it weren’t so tedious as searches are conducted to ensure no local has swum out in the interim and stowed themselves away without us realising. Your cruising permit is noted with your arrival and departure time BUT only if you are leaving the following morning and you do not go ashore. At Chivirico we said we would stay a few days and the permit was removed, to be returned prior to our departure. A few days later a Danish boat arrived and having completed the formalities the Guarda came over to ask if we were leaving. We agreed and he came on, completed the paperwork and indicated we should go. As there was no wind and the next stop was 50 odd miles away I said we would leave that evening. Ah but the papers state you are leaving at 8am, it is not possible for us to remain at anchor until then. The argument that departures have, internationally, 24 hours to clear mean nothing. A discussion between them resulted in the permit being removed until closer the time we would leave. At 5pm a Guarda duly arrived, checked we were leaving, handed over the permit and went ashore where he could clearly be seen, sitting and watching……….

At Portillo we experienced what may be the changing face of Cuba as, adopted by a local woman, we were able to find the diesel pump rather than wait for a launch the Guarda had supposedly organised, get water from her, and vegetables. True she bought them from the local vendors and sold them on to us, possibly doubling the price to 12 pesos but who cares. But on a short ride 3 different people, all offering Cuban souvenirs, approached us. No problems when we declined but this place is a tiny fishing hamlet and hardly the centre of the tourist industry.

As I sit writing this up, we are motoring slowly up the Gardens towards the city of Trinidad. We decided this morning that our very brief visit to Cuba is about to end as the weather has really begun to heat up. Despite having the last 11 months in the sun both of us suffered with sun burnt shoulders yesterday and poor old Toots doesn’t come to life until the sun has almost gone. Her delight is when we put the Bimini up and she can rush from one end of the boat to the other, attacking any head that brushes the underside of her territory. She doesn’t eat much either so all in all we need to start heading North a little more quickly than we had thought. The winds too are very light which necessitates the use of the engine. In fact since we arrived in Cuba we haven’t had one day where we haven’t needed it.

Toots, flat on her back and cooling those feet..

Asides:

Bee hit on the idea of cutting up our lace curtain and covering the main openings and so far this has been fine in keeping most of the biters out. Makes the interior a bit warm but at least some sort of sleep is possible and gives us another project for the winter.

Soap is still good product for barter although we have simply given the bars away to those who might ask. Pens too are in demand although we couldn’t find any in Venezuela to buy.

In Santiago we managed to buy from a departing French yacht a folio of Cuban charts for the one area we really wanted to explore having been unable to track down the local agent for Cuban charts.

The combination of sun and a very saline sea have had a devastating effect on Hannah’s bright work. On the trip up to Cuba the varnish, alternately soaked then baked has simply lifted wholesale from parts of the wood, to the extent that only regular brushing with oil seems to be the answer. The capping rail looks as though it has some kind of terminal skin disease although the use of Linseed oil does, at least, make it less slippery when wet. The result of course is that we looked battered, unkempt and in need of tlc.

Bee, who hasn’t driven for at least 10 years, wants us to look out for an old banger to zoom around the country, bear us in mind if you’re planning to scrap that runabout.

In the midst of this heat and humidity we salivate about English autumn days, donning sweaters to ward off the evening chill………Loverly………..

And a personal message to a Mr John Hart. You were right about that stern gland-stand by with your overalls…and Bee says your stainless steel nuts are the only things not wearing out……

If you are a diver, the area we are currently cruising must be a mecca as the reefs along the SW edge sit on a wall and depths drop in the space of yards to several hundred or more metres.

This ones for the moo crew…you know who you are!

And finally. At anchor in Tortuga, Venezuela I’m in the water cleaning barnacles from the hull. Mike and his 7 year old daughter Bess from Lilly B have paddled over to chat. As I scrape away, a pair of crustaceans we seem to have had clinging on since the Canaries scuttle off along the rudder and I remark on the fact to Mike. On a clear, silent, March morning with half a dozen boats at anchor Bess stares intrigued, pauses, then raising herself and at the top of her, not insignificant voice, hollers out to her sisters, some 100 yards away “This boats got crabs………”

All the above was written some weeks ago and after a pit of a sail, the latter part was a 250 mile beat to windward-we were not happy we arrived in Key West. Leaving Cienfuegos, nice place but once more the officials arrive mobhanded. At 9am we were bordered, searched and duly pronounced clean. At 5.30 pm when we were leaving they felt it necessary to repeat the searches with a different crew and sniffer. We pointed out we had been turned over some 8 hours previously so what were they looking for? “Drugs” he said. “Can you buy drugs in Cuba” we said, “No” came the reply. We left. The journey from port to sea was about 4 mile. A patrol boat escorted us all the way, thus ensuring we did not pull over for the night and anchor. Of which we had no intention.

But after an 8 day epic, would you have expected anything less from us, we reached Key West. First thing is it is INCREDIBLY expensive. $145 for 2 nights. BUT as we moored up and started to arrive a yachtie wandered over to chat about the trip and Hannah. He left after 15 minutes only to re appear minutes later with 2 ice cold beers. Thanks Pete and Marilyn for great welcome to the USA. And for two days we have entertained an amazing set of visitors, John and Sue, Ziggy and Lisa who gave us a wonderful ride round Key West on a monster Harley which has had us thinking………… plus others who left no name but simply came to see the gyppos. Of course we stick out here, the boat ain’t white, has washing hanging out, doesn’t gleam from pristine varnish and polish and cost $500,000. So today we will leave for Ft Lauderdale to get charts before heading for Chesapeake, Maine and Nova Scotia. We can’t wait!