Update posted May 2004
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Just a short one this month as the amount of travelling we have done is very little. Those of you with good memories or with nothing better to occupy themselves with may remember my commenting on the high price of the marina we stayed in at Key West. I felt $145 for 2 nights to be excessive and so it is. Unfortunately I had my figures wrong and the price was for ONE NIGHT. That’s £85 a night to moor a boat………… We anchored off, went drifting with
some American friends as the wind had died, swam with dolphins and
generally had an easy time. Left Key West for Fort Lauderdale with a
forecast of SE winds. Course they didn’t materialise and we spent the
usual frustrating time beating. The wind came about the same time as we
found the Gulf Stream and we found ourselves rushing northwards at
8+knots. With 10 miles to go and 5 hours to dawn we heaved to. Hannah
pointed south but drifted North at a steady 2 knots to duly present us
with the entrance to FL around 6am. We watched the ships enter and leave
before deciding to motor sail up to the entrance. All this time we had
been drifting up the east coast of Florida, with a steady 3-4 blowing from
the SE. We were a couple of miles off the coast so although it was a lee
shore I felt comfortable with the proximity. Until we started the engine
and it didn’t. Start that is. Bee went immediately to work, located the
iffy wire and had us up and running in a few minutes. Must get that sorted
we said to ourselves for the umpteenth time……….. Fort Lauderdale. What on earth can we say about the place? Brash. Tasteless. Obscene.
All that and more. HUGE houses
the size of small hotels line canals. Many appear empty (we later learnt
that the wealthy do not use their FL homes in the summer) but equally vast
numbers of very large powerboats abound. There is a serious amount of
money sitting around this town and if all the boats were gathered up and
sold the resulting cash would probably eradicate third world debt. Won’t
happen of course but…….. So we motored into this bastion of
capitalism, spoke to a kiwi yacht and found our way to Lake Sylvia.
Surrounded by million $ homes is a secluded anchorage. Busy the day we
arrived the locals left by the weekend leaving a smattering of travellers.
We shopped, bought charts of Maine etc and took the decision to head on up
the ICW (Inter Coastal
Waterway-runs from Miami to Virginia (I think) for 1000 miles. Its shallow
in places so for Hannah’s depth is not all navigable but would be ok for
40 or so miles. Lots of bridges of course, some current and hundreds of
powerboats. Day 1 passed without real incident other than a current so
strong that the engine at 3000 revs struggled to get Hannah through one
bridge. The other English boat we had met forged on and we haven’t seen
them since. Nearly lost our dinghy, as passing boats seem to deliberately
attempt swamping. Reckoned without Bee who leapt into action and into the
dinghy and could be seen flinging water out by the bucket load. We
anchored for the night and moved on the following day. An easy day that
ended in another sheltered anchorage, surrounded by large homes with a
convenient beach and supermarket nearby. We subsequently found we were
camped in Jack Nicklaus's back yard but it was the closeness of the
supermarket we found more attractive. Getting everything done we decided
to leave early the next day remaining in the ICW as the winds were still
not favourable. As we approached our 3 rd bridge of the day we went into
neutral whilst awaiting the bridge opening. Into forward, to be greeted by
a foreign noise but no movement. Into reverse to get the same effect. Yup
no doubt about it we had lost our gearbox………… So we’re in this
narrow river, stream running, little wind but lots of bridges. We dropped
the hook in the channel and found ourselves off a marina. We checked the
prop. No movement. We talked to the local marina, run by a guy from
Manchester, who rang a local yard. We called up a company called Sea Tow
but weren’t able to establish contact. They could hear us, liased with
the marina and came out. As they wanted $200 to tow us and thought my
offer of $20 to be a shade low they went away. The owner of the yard
agreed to tow us but wanted $150 so we decided to sail. The wind had
freshened, would be on the beam and we might just be able to manage it. We
got ourselves ready and then managed to bum a tow from a passing boat
thanks to Gemini from Jupiter. They cast us off some 50+
metres from the piles and with more jam than Hartleys we came alongside
and reversed Hannah between the piles with no fuss. The Ways is a DIY yard and we
have. Gearbox out, then stripped down. Seemed to be ok but we don’t
really know what we’re looking for. Zig, the friend from Key West called
by and ran us down to Fort Lauderdale to a company that import the English
gearbox. Sure they could rebuild but the time and cost took it close to
that of a new one which we could have there and then. We bought. But, the
guy insisted he see the drive plate as the spline on gearbox showed signs
of abnormal wear. The following day, hanging upside down in the cockpit we
inspected. It looked fine, showed no signs of wear and I toyed with the
idea of leaving it. Getting it off involved removing the engine bell
housing, which is how we discovered the stuffed engine mount……… This
time Jim, a fellow yottie in the yard, ran us down to FL and I presented
the drive plate. I suggested it seemed ok and the technician looked at me.
Turning he picked up another plate and laid by the side of ours. It was
only then that we realised that half of the splines had been ripped out
and so smoothly it looked to have been engineered that way………. Me
and my big mouth. So new drive plate, 2 new engine mounts and back to
base. We decided to go the whole hog and get the prop off to be
rebalanced. Opted to come out cos we could anti foul but insufficient
depth in the travel hoist bay stopped that. A dive company removed the
prop and we sit here awaiting its return. But we’ve peddled our way
around the area, visiting chandlers and supermarkets and generally getting
ourselves ready for the sail north. Chesapeake is no longer an option so
we will probably do the 1200 miles to Maine in one hit to get back on
schedule. We can feel the difference in the weather as the days are
getting muggier and the last 4 or 5 days have seen a lot of rain. The
hurricane season officially starts in a months time and warm weather will
be working its way North, making it a good time to reach the rocky shores
and inlets of maine. Big tides, rocks and strong currents. Sounds an
exciting mix. So
thanks to all who helped, by phone, email, text and transport we should
soon be on our way
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